What are AHA and BHA? A Practical Guide

Studies show that Women as old as 65 percent do not know the difference between the two frequently used ingredients in skin care products: AHA and BHA. 

I used to be confused too. So, let’s figure out what are AHA and BHA.

AHA means alpha-hydroxy acids and BHA means beta hydroxy acids, they are both kinds of chemical exfoliants employed in most Skin care products. 

A study when an AHA lotion was used for 6 months showed that skin thickness was enhanced by 25%. Pretty impressive!

These are glycolic and lactic acids, probably the most used chemical peeling agents due to their relative safety. They are water soluble hence have the ability to perform the work of an exfoliate by eliminating dead skin cells on the outer layer of the skin.

They should only be used on the surface hence they are perfect for improving on texture, reducing fine lines and clearing clogged pores. 

Turning to the opposite end of the alphabet, one may find that BHA means beta hydroxy acid. The most typical of all those used is Salicylic acid. While using AHAs, the skin’s surface is more targeted while using of BHAs gets deeper into the pores because it is oil soluble. They can also act to dissolve accumulated deposits of dirt, debris or sebum for example. That is why BHAs are effective for acne and for reducing the look of pores on the skin’s surface. 

How Do AHAs Work?

AHA functions through the removal of subdermal bonds that hold on the outer layers of the dead skin cells, to be flooded out to expose the new ones below. 

Other than leaving your skin ‘glowing’, this sloughing off of dead skin also prepares the skin to take in treatments such as serums and moisturizers.  

Some studies say regular use of AHA decreases fine line defects and wrinkles by the promotion of collagen in skin cells. AHAs are also great for problems such as age spots and melasma if you are consistent in your use and commit to using them regularly. 

Of course, I’d just like to note that any form of an exfoliant does make the skin more sensitive to UV rays somewhat. If you are using AHAs, remember to wear a sun protector with an SP 30. 

How do BHAs Work?

While AHAs dissolve only in water, the BHAs are oil-soluble products. This enables them to penetrate deeply into the skin and come face to face with the oil, the dead skin that piles up, and the bacteria causing acne, and blackheads. BHA also prevents and minimizes breakouts while it exfoliates the skin, minimizing pores and evening skin tone.

Not only does salicylic acid remove buildup from the skin’s surface, it also decreases inflammation and irritation. It also got rid of dead skin that bounces back light in a manner that puts emphasis on lines within the skin. When employed regularly, BHA products make the skin’s tone and texture better, control breakouts, and clear pores. 

It is important that you also wear your SPF 30 sunscreen every day when using the BHA products.

What are the Benefits of using AHAs?

• AHAs are acids that are found in fruit and they closely mimic the skin’s action by shedding the outermost layer of skin to reveal a healthy, shining layer of skin.

• AHAs are great scrubbing agents that increase the rate of cell regeneration. AHAs also work by shedding the outer layer of lifeless skin cells which gradually promotes the growth of new ones and collagen fibers. 

• However, apart from the exfoliating effect, AHAs are good humectants since they are capable of adhering moisture to the skin. This is particularly good news for people with dry skin types as it helps to increase the heaviness of the extract. 

• Another benefit of AHAs is that they help in moisturizing coming in handy to balance the drying of the ingredients that function as an exfoliant.

What are the benefits of using BHAs?

• Salicylic acid and other Beta hydroxy acids respectively have unique properties that enable them to dissolve in oil and thus easily penetrate through the skin to the pores. While working inside the pores, BHAs successfully break down thick and sticky sebum with dead skin cells which could combine to block the pores and lead to acne.

• Also, BHAs control oil production. Basically, due to less oil and sebum secretion after some period of time, pores do not get blocked by the dirt that causes skin breakouts.

• Similar to AHAs, BHAs encourage the sloughing of dead skin cells promoting fresh and radiant skin and a more uniform skin tone. 

• Because BHAs can penetrate through oily skin clogs, they are particularly effective for dealing with current acne and stopping fresh acne from occurring. 

Can AHAs and BHAs be used together?

Yes, an AHA and a BHA can go together and partner to unleash the double whammy on your skin. 

While gentle exfoliants such as glycolic acid and lactose only work on the surface the same goes for BHAs like salicylic acid formula to penetrate deeper and dissolve oil, debris and buildup. An AHA/BHA, thus gives you a chance to both, remove the top layer of the skin through the AHAs while at the same time, clearing the pores even more effectively through the BHAs.

However, beginning simultaneous use of AHAs and BHAs will lead to increased skin sensitivity, sensitivity, stinging, redness, and flaking – especially when transitioning to leaving exfoliating products on the skin’s surface. Ideally, it is preferable to introduce one active at a time and let the skin get used to it for the next one. In their usage, the combo can be used initially at 2-3 times a week while gradually, depending on the skin’s response.

Are there any side effects?

To minimize side effects, one should apply a water-based lotion, a gel, or a serum as it will help to calm the skin. Also, religiously wear broad spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen in the AM when using these exfoliants as they cause the skin to become sensitive to UV light.

Lastly, follow your skin’s advice - If it becomes very red, itchy, scaly, or sore, you probably need to give one or both of the actives a rest.

Getting back to the idea of using AHAs and BHAs at the same time… It is possible to do it if you exercise a little caution, have some patience, and remember to wear your sunscreen every day.

The Bottom Line

And there you have it, folks! A breakdown of what AHA and BHA are, how they effectively correct skin problems, and why you might need to incorporate them into your beauty regime. 

Bear in mind that no matter how good the ingredients are, too much of anything is bad for your skin. Add the acid slowly to your face and never leave the house without sunscreen. The skin covers our body and it’s very important to make sure it’s always in good condition since it will always look out for our body.